Day 14 - Durness - Thurso

31 July 2104

Accommodation – Mrs Murray’s B&B

Weather – very overcast opening to a clear fine day

Temperature – minimum 12 degrees top 16 degrees

Today was one of those magical days when everything came together so beautifully.  We had really wanted to travel to Cape Wrath so we were hopeful for clear weather.  Our first glimpse out of our B&B window revealed a very overcast day but we decided to have a go.

The ferry (read:  aluminium boat) left at 9am to cross the Kyle of Durness.  Lots of seaweed was evident but this is because there is a 5 metre tidal difference.  Once on the other side we were picked up by John the driver.  (There were also John the boatsman and John the lighthouse keeper:  they said they like to keep things simple!).

View from the pier...crossing to the other side to Cape Wrath.

The ferry!

The Cape Wrath area is designated an area of special scientific interest however it is also a military zone where live firings of missiles and bombs occur.  Red flags fly and sentries are posted if this is occurring. 

 The view northwards from Cape Wrath....towering cliffs and a haven for birdlife.

 

The lighthouse was built in 1828.  Many ships foundered here before it was built.

A long way down....raw beauty at its best!

 



Yes, we are travelling together!  Cathedral Rock can be seen in the background as it has a 'window' in its formation.

The bus ride takes about forty minutes and the driver talked us through the landscape, birds and animals.  He is an avid naturalist and photographer. 

The weather was significantly brighter and at the lighthouse side we could just make out the Orkneys and Lewis and Harris of the Outer Hebrides.

The Cape Wrath area is stunning and we stood and took in the breathtaking views of the 900 foot cliffs and distinctive rock formations.  There is a little coffee shop there and the driver told us that one Christmas his wife went to the mainland to get Christmas provisions and presents and she couldn’t return for five weeks because of snow and bad weather!  The cape is more northerly than Moscow so I can imagine that the North Sea can give its fair share of bad weather.  It is so far north that in October and November Aurora Borealis can be seen from here.

We returned to Durness, the most north western township in the UK, and then headed off to Thurso.  It’s a pretty drive following the North Sea as many of the small townships have wonderful sandy beaches/bays shielded by rocky cliffs.

The stone bridge over the Kyle of Tongue where we stopped for a coffee break.

 

We arrived at our B&B without any difficulties and Mrs Murray gave us the town map to explore this little place.  It is right on the ocean with an expansive white sandy beach, a harbour and ruined castle and church.  It has a long history.

The wide sandy beach of Thurso.

 

An evening stroll before dinner.....just across the river lies the ruins of Thurso Castle.

 

Dinner at Le Bistro, recommended by our host, was a lovely way to finish a very fascinating day.  Tomorrow we are hopeful the weather will last and we can explore the Orkneys.  Fingers crossed!