Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Day 13 - Isle of Skye - Durness


30 July 2014

Accommodation – Aiden House B&B

Weather – rain and drizzle all day with sun from 5.30pm to 8pm

Temperature – low of 12 degrees – high of 18 degrees

Today we left the beautiful Isle of Skye and headed to the top of Scotland.  The weather was poor so it was a good day to get a long drive in.

We followed the Wester Ross Coast Road which became a single track road for a few kilometres.  The countryside was barren, sparse and dotted with very few sheep.  The road turned out to be a good one after a few kilometres of the single lane road.

It became a passing parade of rolling hills, heather and lochs and we paused for the occasional photo.  There were very few villages on the way.  It took us three hours to reach Ullapool, a small fishing village on Loch Broom.  Boats leave here for the Outer Hebrides.  The village provides free parking which was a novelty and we wandered down to the port with our wet weather gear.  We found a great pub, the Ferry Boat Inn, on the waterfront and had a hearty meal of clam soup and panini followed by sticky toffee pudding.  The cooler weather brings on the appetite!

Bleak, bleak, bleak....Loch Broom with Ullapool in the distance.
Ardvreck Castle - the ruined castle built in 1659.
 
We did a little more souvenir shopping for the grandchildren and then we were off north again.  Just out of Ullapool is a lovely small village on a beach – Ardmaire Bay.  The temperature plummeted to 12 degrees and the mountains remained shrouded in cloud.  Just outside Inchadamph on Loch Assynt is the ruined castle of Ardvreck.  The 17th century  castle built by the McLeod family is situated on a grassy islet with a thin peninsular. 

Twenty minutes out of Durness we went down to a single lane with the now common ‘passing lanes’.  People are very courteous and hold back and wave as we go past.

We arrived at Durness and what a real treat this little place is.  Our B&B overlooks magnificent cliffs, rolling ocean, sheep in the field and hopping rabbits!  What a view from our bedroom window.
I don't think I want to leave here!

The weather was starting to brighten so we drove down to the beach to the west of Durness.  Balnakeil Beach is a wide sandy beach with a path which can be followed around to Faraid Headland.  An old church built in the early 1600’s sits above the beach and is partially covered with ivy.  New and old headstones dot the grounds surrounding the old church.

The old church of Balnakeil.  It was built in the early 1600's and houses an old tomb.

The wide sandy beach of Balnakeil.....at last sunshine and it showed off the beach at its best.
 
It was on to the fascinating  Smoo Cave on the eastern side of Durness.  The freshwater outlet to the sea is particularly beautiful between the cliffs.  The cave’s history can be traced back to the Vikings and a midden of shells can be seen at the entrance of the cave.  A forceful waterfall drops from above and feeds into a stream out to the ocean.

Looking from the cave out to sea.

 The waterfall had a lot of force due to the heavy downpours over a few days.
Looking back to Smoo Cave from the hilltop walk.
It was time for dinner and we followed our host’s advice and went to the Smoo Cave Pub just up the road from the cave.  I tried the haggis scotch egg with mashed neeps and potato.  It was really delicious as the scotch egg had been deep fried.  I think I’ll need a cholesterol check when I get back after today’s calorific intake!!
Dinner!
 

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